Prada-Kolhapuri Chappal Controversy: Bombay High Court Dismisses PIL

Key Points

• Bombay High Court dismissed a PIL against Prada, questioning the petitioners’ right to sue over Kolhapuri chappal design.
• Kolhapuri chappals are protected under India’s Geographical Indication law, but the court ruled only the registered GI holder could bring a case.
• Prada faced backlash for its ‘toe-ring sandals’ priced at ₹1 lakh a design critics called near-identical to Kolhapuris.
• Following criticism, Prada sent a team to Kolhapur to meet local artisans and explore collaboration opportunities.
• Plans are underway for a limited-edition, globally-marketed Kolhapuri-inspired collection, recognizing traditional Indian craftsmanship.

Mumbai: The Bombay High Court on Wednesday rejected a public interest litigation (PIL) seeking action against Italian luxury brand Prada over its alleged unauthorized use of the Kolhapuri chappal design in their Spring/Summer 2026 collection. The bench, headed by Chief Justice Alok Aradhe and Justice Sandeep Marne, questioned the standing of the five lawyers who filed the plea, pointing out they were not the aggrieved party, registered owner, or the official holder of the Kolhapuri chappal’s Geographical Indication (GI) rights.

Key judicial comments:
“You are not the owner of this Kolhapuri chappal. What is your locus and what is the public interest? Any person aggrieved can file a suit. What is the public interest in this?”
The court made it clear that only the registered GI proprietors could file suit and indicated a detailed order would follow.

The Prada ‘Toe-Ring Sandal’ Row

Prada’s ‘toe-ring sandals’ stirred a cultural controversy after being unveiled at Milan Fashion Week, with Indian petitioners arguing the ₹1 lakh designer footwear was deceptively similar to the traditional Kolhapuri chappal—a centuries-old craft recognized with GI protection in India.

Petitioners’ Demands

• Restraint on Prada from selling the sandals without GI authorization
• Compensation and public acknowledgment of Indian artisanal heritage
• Official public apology from Prada

Prada Responds: Artisanal Engagement in Kolhapur

Amid the uproar, Prada acknowledged the sandals’ Indian inspiration, stating their designs are in early stages and not yet slated for mass production. To address the matter, Prada opened dialogue with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry, and Agriculture (MACCIA), which represents some 3,000 Kolhapuri craftspeople.

Italian Delegation Visits Kolhapur

• Prada sent a six-member technical team, including footwear design heads, to Kolhapur to study the handmade process and meet local artisans.
• The group observed the intricacies of crafting Kolhapuri chappals, discussed potential collaboration, and purchased footwear directly from artisans during the visit.
• Artisans showcased traditional techniques and expressed interest in global distribution for their work.

Toward a ‘Made in India’ Collection

Prada signaled readiness to partner with local shoemakers on a limited-edition, co-branded Kolhapuri collection, aiming to responsibly credit and compensate Indian craftsmanship through global exposure. Discussions focused on respectful design practices, and a “meaningful exchange” with the artisan community.

Potential Collaboration Outcomes

• Global recognition and expanded markets for Kolhapuri artisans
• Cultural preservation and economic support for traditional crafts
• A model for future collaboration between global luxury brands and India’s artisanal sector

The Larger Story: Cultural Heritage Meets Modern Fashion

This highly publicized dispute spotlights both the vulnerabilities and opportunities of Indian artisanal heritage in global fashion. Prada’s case has inspired calls for stronger GI enforcement and more transparent brand-artisan collaborations, ensuring traditional communities benefit when their culture inspires the world.

Table: Timeline of Events

Prada’s Kolhapuri sandal controversy, initially a flashpoint over cultural appropriation, is now pivoting toward dialogue and partnership a potential win for both Indian crafting tradition and the global fashion community.